lundi 14 mai 2018 | pierre louis costes

"I always wanted to come back to Sumatra since my first trip in 2009, it is hard our days to find destinations where you can surf pumping waves with no crowd and yet , maybe because of the mission to get there , Secret Sumatra still remains a quiet zone with quality waves around.

After watching on the forecast a solid swell hitting Indonesia, my wife and I decided to book flights and try our luck for a week, many world class waves in Indo were about the break so it was a tough call to make, Nias , Super Suck , Desert Point???

We decided to go to Secret Sumatra and meet with Romeu from Walur Surf camp, the first day was massive and nowhere was rideable around , meanwhile all the best waves in Indo were on the pump, of course I asked my self "Did we make the wrong call?"

Lucky for us , the second day brought perfect conditions for A-frame , the wave breaking in front of our camp , it was pretty much as good as it gets , the morning session was insane with only 2 people out. A storm came in the afternoon and just before dark , the wind blew off shore and A-frame started to pump again, I probably would miss that session if I did not stay in front of the camp.

It was one of the scariest session of my life for sure, I was the only guy out and the waves were massive, an other tropical storm was on its way and I never felt so much the urge to leave the water. You can see how dark the sky was in last part of the video.

The following days, the swell dropped but I could still surf some fun waves at A-frame, we also get to surf a sick right hander some Portuguese friends discovered a few years ago. Of course, producing a clip was the purpose of the trip but what I also wanted was to surf as much as possible and practice my repertoire, I really felt it was an intense training, I could enter the water and work on everything I felt like working on, there was nobody around and plenty of waves to be ridden. I did this trip in between two World tour events and I really felt this trip helped me to re adjust my technique and my wave riding.

After 5 days , we went back to Bali to enjoy the rest of the trip , it s one of the coolest feeling back going back to civilisation after a mission in a remote place, we realize we take everything for granted in life."

Cheers Pierre.

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